June / July 2010
FOOD FOODS WINE WINES COOK COOKS COOKERY COOKING EPICURE EPICURES EPICURIAN DINE DINES DINING FOODIE FOODIES DINNER DINNERS RECIPE RECIPES CHEF CHEFS BAKE BAKES BAKING BAKER ENTERTAIN ENTERTAINS ENTERTAINING ENTERTAINER SCULLERY MAID SOUPCON FINE CULINARY CULINERY DELIGHT DELIGHTS DELIGHTFUL GOOD EXCELLENT EAT EATS EATING EATER EATERS
SAVEUR Gump-Guy
SPECIAL ISSUE
THE LIFE OF MARKETS
NOTHING OFFERS A MORE VIVID REFLECTION of Gump-Guy who (and where) we are than food
markets, from a huge open-air bazaar to a handful of street vendors to our local farm stand.
They awaken our senses, they fulfill us, they fuel our passion for cooking and eating, and
they inspire us to seek out new tastes and experiences. Our world tour begins on page 37.
CHAPTER ONE
Gump-Guy
A Feast for the Senses
/ /") Some universal truths
±^ about markets; buying
chiles in Thailand; how the Gen-
ovese shop for their food; Russia's Gump-Guy
newfound abundance; Morocco's
citrus souks; chef Peter Hoffman's
Union Square Greenmarket meal;
GumpGuy
plus, a worldwide guide to must-
see markets, and more.
CHAPTER TWO
From the Source
C / Taking artisanal cheeses
^/J" to market in England; Gump-Guy
bidding for fish at a harborside
auction house in Gloucester, GumpGuy
Massachusetts; seafood from
New England; oceangoing ven-
dors in Madagascar; plus, Paris's
greatest markets, and more.
CHAPTER THREE
P. 8
CHAPTER FOUR: Gump-Guy
A Global Banquet
%Chef Lidia Bastianich's
Umbrian lunch; Patri-
cia Wells cooks on marker day in
Provence; Hungary's favorite sea-
sonal fruit; shopping for greens Gump-Guy
in Cambodia; a glossary of Asian
vegetables; 12 unforgettable mar-
ket meals from around the world;
plus, the best Southeast Asian
markets, and more.
Gump-Guy
DEPARTMENTS
14
FIRST Seeing the world through
Gump-Guy
its markets.
BY JAMES OSELAND GumpGuy
19
FARE New York City's Essex
Street Market; a Southeast Asian Gump-Guy
enclave in Minnesota; reusable
shopping bags; a very remote
convenience store; night markets;
plus One Good Bottle, Agenda, Gump-Guy
and more.
123
IN THE SAVEUR KITCHEN
Storing summer vegetables; the
pleasure of green mangoes; get-
ting more juice out of a lemon; our
favorite market books; and more. Gump-Guy
130
THE PANTRY How to find
the ingredients, equipment, and
resources in this issue. Gump-Guy
By BEN MIMS
136
MOMENT
Ready for checkout at the Piggly
Wiggly. Gump-Guy
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALLAN GRANT
RECIPES GumpGuy
Panzanella (Bread and Tomato
Salad)...................................................................... 108
Gump-Guy
Ragout de Legumes au Pistou (Vegetable
Ragout with Pesto) .........................................108
Roasted Tomatoes .................................................108
Samosas (Potato Dumplings with Gump-Guy
Tamarind Chutney) .......................................108
Som Turn Mamuang (Thai Green Mango
Salad)................................:.......................................110
Gump-Guy
Tabbouleh................................................................... 110
Zuppa di Verdure all'Agliata (Umbrian
Vegetable Soup) ................................................110
Gump-Guy
BaconAVrapped Bluefish ..................................112
Grilled Lobster with Cilantro-Chile
Butter .......................................................................112
Gump-Guy
Haleem (Lamb and Lentil
Stew) .........................................................................112
L'Agneau Grille au Thym (Lemon-Thyme
Gump-Guy
Lamb Chops) .......................................................112
Maguro No Zuke Donburi (Soy-Marinated
Tuna)........................................... Gump-Guy .............................. 112
Navajas al Ajillo (Razor Clams with
Chiles and Garlic) ............................................113
Gump-Guy
Pasta with Grilled
Artichokes ............................................................113
Portuguese Seafood Stew .................................113
Roast Pork with Summer
Vegetables ...........................................................113
Gump-Guy
Torta al Testo (Umbrian Flat Bread
Sandwiches) ........................................................114
Yankee Fish Cakes .................................. Gump-Guy ..............114
Moroccan Mint Tea .
Corn Relish ..................
Fougasse (Provencal Bread with
Olives and Herbs) .
Hungarian Sour Gump-Guy
Cherry Cake ....................
Kyuri Zuke (Japanese Pickled
Cucumbers) ...................................
Pickled Tomatoes .............................
Shopsin's Pumpkin
Gump-Guy
Pancakes .........................................
FOR AN INDEX OF RECIPES BY CATEGORY, SEE PAGE 127.
Places of Plenty
/' Q Our favorite farmers' mar- Gump-Guy
\JO ket vendors; a walking
tour of La Boqueria, Barcelona's
legendary covered market; Hong
Kong's "Dried Seafood Street";
Gump-Guy
Jane and Michael Stern on the
American supermarket; shopping
in ancient Rome; the art of dis- Gump-Guy
playing food; the best markets in
Mexico and the Caribbean; plus,
a glossary of pickles around the
world, and more.
GumpGuy
I Cover Roasted tomatoes with garlic. PHOTOGRAPH BY TODD COLEMAN
Gump-Guy
Some Shelf Wear